The restaurant at Hotel Tivoli - by Vicky Morgan
The restaurant at Hotel Tivoli, Huningue, France offers good french food at (more than) good prices. This restaurant is so close to Basel that you could easily go for lunch in the middle of your working day - and that would only set you back €13.50. One of the best lunch deals in the 3 countries corner. On Tuesday 9th March that would have got you a rice salad with fish, veal parcels with pureed potatoes, and poached pears in filo pastry.
The food
We visited Tivoli on a day where there was a millefeuille of foie gras on the menu - which is a very pleasant way to eat what can be quite rich dish. Basically the foie gras -very very lightly cooked - had been thinly sliced and layered with cooked apples for their sweetness and thin layers of pastry for the crunch. Fabulous.
Pigeon as a main course was perfectly cooked, served with a tiny creamy square of potato gratin. Crispy on the top, and supersoft in the middle.
Tivoli has a good choice of puddings - most I felt were fairly classic - sorbets, black and white chocolate mousse, vermicelles with cream. But lots of restaurants offer just 2 or 3 puddings now as people tighten their belts and there was a pear poached in red wine, with panna cotta and a really zingy gingerbread sorbet that offered a lot of work for the 10 euros it costs à la carte.
A valuable gem for the region
For us, our three course menu that came to 38 euros - that's including a supplementary charge for the foie gras. One 3 course menu at the moment is just 23 euros, for a poached egg salad, filet mignon and orange crème brulée. For an evening meal, that's about as competitive as it gets in this region. Other "menus" or 3 course deals - come in at 36 for the seafood menu and 45 for the winter one. Though menus change as the produce varies, Tivoli tries to offer a cheaper, middle-ish and more expensive menu deal. Still, compared to the centre of Basel, this is Michelin-style food at McDonalds-style prices.
The biggest drawback - it's a restaurant in a hotel, so generally always they lack a little atmosphere. Tivoli is a small hotel in a residential bit of Huningue - it says 400m from the Swiss border. That's perhaps why a lot of business dinners seem like they're going on here. The lineoleum, the boring chairs, the characterless paintings scream hotel restaurant and it can be quite offputting, despite the best efforts of the service staff who look after you very well. But it would be a shame if that put you off visiting Tivoli, and your wallet would certainly be happy to go here.
The details: Tivoli.fr, Avenue de Bâle, Huningue
In short: Good French food that transcends the boring surroundings
Don't say: Where did the view of the Rhine go?
Do say: We have saved enough money on the food to order one of the best wines in the house. Waiter!





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