Auberge Saint Laurent - by Vicky Morgan
I headed over the border to the village of Sierentz in France to the Auberge Saint Laurent. I know it as "the restaurant with one Michelin star," so of course I was going for the food. But the building is lovely - reminds me of a 18th century coachhouse in Sierentz's tiny tiny historical centre. But of course, Michelin star very rarely equals cheap night out, so this is special occasion territory.
The menu is more of a list of delicacies where you have to choose what not to have. Foie gras with cabbage chutney - tuscan style pasta with truffles, crunchy fillet of sea bass with french caviar - I translate, but in french the menu comes across as positively magical. The tasting menu seemed the only democratic choice. We began with roast tail of lobster in a saffron sauce, moved on to roast milk veal stuffed with foie gras, smelly Epoisses cheese served with a soft caramel bonbon - that was amazing as the sweet takes the edge off the cheese. Eight dishes in all, if you include the "presents" from the chef -a super light fennel mousse was fantastic way to cleanse the palate. They also had - in the depths of winter - some perfectly tiny, perfectly red strawberries. That tasted. No Michelin star comes to people who fly in produce from around the world, so I wonder if there is a greenhouse.
I can't criticise the food, but the décor is ever so slightly kitsch. The restaurant is in an old Alsacian building made from old stone and timber frames...but it feels to me like the upholstery and the curtains are a bit too pink chintz and a bit too 1980s. Do you know though, after a while, I actually got to thinking it was nice. One thing I would point out is that vegetarians who don't eat fish don't have such a great choice - just one dish I could see on the à la carte menu. The staff say they will always try to get the chef to accommodate you, however.
Recommend it? Oh yes. But with the proviso that my menu cost 65€ so it is really not for everyday, although it compares quite well to central Basel. There are other menus for 40€ but you get just 2 courses, and portions are fine, though not big. I think this is common in French cuisine to compensate for the butter and cream that are extremely pleasant "en bouche." Where the Auberge Saint Laurent is very talented is you do not think you are eating anything heavy - it all seems light and floaty even as you slip the softest of buttery potatoes into your mouth.
A lunch menu can be had for 30€ and the wines I think are pretty reasonable - we had a white Alsace wine for 30€. They do say they will prepare special portions for children under 12. After then - you're an adult! Who would have thought it?
Service? Fine with English, French, German, or pidgeon versions of these. The waiter will always explain your courses and tell you if there is something you should do to get the best out of your dish. I find this a bit solemn, but for a business dinner it can be useful for fostering conversation.
Location? Easy to get to off the motorway, there's even trains to Basel, though the station is a 10 minute walk from the restaurant.
Don't say "Ah non, I'm on a diet."
Do say "I loved the caramel lollipops, the pre-pudding pudding."
In short? Best food I've tasted in the 3 countries corner.





Louise